Beyond Pinot Grigio

Surprising no one, the number one Italian white wine we as Americans drink is Pinot Grigio. In overall consumption it ranks fourth behind Chardonnay, Cabernet and red blends – not bad for a grape that has only been on our wine-drinking radar for less than two decades. And what's not to like? It's affordable, refreshing, easy to pronounce and available everywhere. Lots of it.

It is that popularity that has become Pinot Grigio's Achilles heel. Overproduction has been threatening quality for years. That is not to say there aren't delicious bottles of Pinot Grigio out there. There are and always will be. They've just become more difficult to find.

In Italy, Pinot Grigio is made and consumed almost entirely in the northeast corner of the country, north of Venice and Verona to the foothills of the Alps. What may surprise some is that Pinot Grigio only accounts for about ten percent of all the white wine made in Italy. It begs the question: What other white wines are the Italians drinking? They would seem to be "on the ball" gastronomically speaking. After all, they gave us pesto, prosciutto and pasta, to name only a few.

The truth is that they drink wines awfully similar to Pinot Grigio but made from their own local grapes. Some have a bit more weight while others are slightly more aromatic, but they all deliver the same refreshing snap and bright flavors that makes Pinot Grigio so delightfully drinkable.

There are at least a couple dozen other types of Italian white wine available regularly, but as we ease from late summer to early fall, let's take a look at four that are perfect for the season:

Roero Arneis

Seashells and sand are the key. The Piedmont vineyards where this wine varietal is made were once ancient ocean beds. It's been said that Roero Arneis wines taste like white melon generously sprinkled with sea salt. It's a nice combination. You get the fruit up front but a saline edge that makes it a great food wine.

Pinot Bianco

The Alto Adige region is capable of making wines of elegance and refinement. The fruit tastes of apples and pears, but when picked late, these grapes can veer into a more tropical territory. There will be floral aromas, perhaps a hint of chamomile and the fingerprint note of orange blossom. The palate will have body but also a firm, reassuring acidity, and it will be bone-dry (or almost).