Beyond Bordeaux

The Bordeaux region of France has long set the bar for red wines across the world. So strong is the influence that for 150 years, aspiring wine regions around the world have been planting the same grapes in the hopes of capturing the same success.

For Bordeaux the magic lies in the blending. Six grapes are permissible in Bordeaux: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Malbec, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot and Carménère. Most of the region's wines are made from blending two or three of these varietals together. Each has attributes and flavors winemakers prize.

In the last four decades, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Malbec found fame and fortune in the more hospitable climates of California, Washington, Argentina and elsewhere. During that same time, the "other" Bordeaux grapes have quietly remained in smaller roles.

Increasingly, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot and Carménère are stepping out on their own. Each vintage the selection grows as they are finding new homes in places such as Chile and Oregon or enjoying a renaissance in regions like the Loire. These wines offer the wine drinker something new but at the same time feature flavors that ring familiar. More wineries are making a case for these underdog grapes and they are worth a sip or two.

Cabernet Franc

Cabernet Franc is the third most widely planted grape in Bordeaux. It is a parent grape of both Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. Although it is of slighter, more elegant build, it bears a noticeable resemblance to its more famous progeny. This makes it an ideal partner for all sorts of seasonal specialties such as game birds, mushrooms and beef tenderloin.

Carménère

Carménère, like its cousin Malbec, was a finicky grape in the French climate. Disease completely destroyed Carménère vineyards in the late nineteenth century. For years it was known only as the "lost" Bordeaux grape. What was unknown for over a century was that a few cuttings of Carménère made their way to Chile, where it thrived in the valleys around Santiago. Chilean winemakers realized the beauty of the grape’s flavors on its own and began creating a single-varietal wine in the 1990s. The grapes create a deep red wine that has flavors of cherries, blackberries and spice.

Petite Verdot

Petite Verdot has difficulty ripening in Bordeaux, where it is used judiciously as "seasoning." The warmer climates of California, Spain and South America are giving Petit Verdot a chance to shine on its own merit. It offers black fruit flavors ranging from plum, blackberry and blueberry to slightly lighter black cherry. Aromatically, it can be stunning with floral notes such as violet, lilac, lavender, sage and dried herbs. Drier examples are perfect with sausage, lamb and hard or semi-soft cheeses. Juicier wines match well with Mexican dishes such as adobo, mole and black or pinto beans.